Quote from: a1plumb on September 26, 2011, 10:35:32 PM
Hi I'm here to put a washer on your orb but I've noticed you don't have a tempering valve. I'm going to have to put one in and it's going to cost you $400.

But I don't have $400

I'm sorry but I legally have to install one. Go get your cheque book.

Get out of my house

I'm sorry but I'm installing a tempering valve.

I don't want one get out.

I'm putting one in get out of my way

I'm calling the police

stil LMAO - GOLD!!

Quote from: THOMAS90 on September 28, 2011, 08:30:38 AM
Spectacular - I didn't realsie that there were so many precious / anxious plumbers out there.
I'm after information so that I am informed when I engage a certified plumber to make the remedial work.
The certified plumber I engaged to install my new fire, wetback & new hot water cylinder followed the standards but didn't get the system working anywhere near to my satisfaction.
They made a crap job of installing the flue surround plate at the ceiling - cutting into the ornate cornice........I was totally pissed off.
Anyway enough said, here's my stats;

6.3m head from ajax to open vent - looks like I can get this increased a further 1.5m
flow rate measured from the bath tap - 76mL/s, I ran a 2L bottle, it filled in 26.41 secs.

What would a real plumber recommend in this situation?

1. Increase the open vent pipe to 7.6m.
2. Increase the pipe between HW cylinder & bathroom?
3. Booster pump?

Craig

Craig if those figures are correct then I would suggest you have issues with either the pipe - ie galv - or the pipework - ie too many bends/tees etc

could be a partial blockage somewhere?

may be easy to run dedicated line to shower/bath?

access to pipes?

lots of variables

on a low pressure system a bath should have 3/4"-20mm dia pipe as a rule of thumb, having said that 1/2" would be fine if only a short distance pipe run

for every 90deg bend (unless swept bend) or tee it is roughly equivelent in 5m worth of pipe friction, ie if water had to travel through 4 90deg fittings - bends/tees - thats the same as adding 20m of pipe length and associated pressure/flow losses due to pipe friction

I dont believe you NEED to increase vent height if prv is set right you should be fine in that regard to available pressure


I think you need to get somebody there to check it all out - let them make a judgement call - may just be easier and more cost effective to put in hot water booster pump